Parquet work
Sex is one of the most exploited elements of our apartments. It is not surprising that, due to these circumstances, he can very quickly lose his attractive appearance, dilapidate, and require repair.
Most often in our apartments there are several types of floor coverings, as a rule, this is linoleum, or some other kind of carpet in the corridor and in the kitchen, the same linoleum or tile in the bathroom, and parquet in the rooms. The greatest difficulty in repairing flooring is the process of restoration and finishing of parquet floors.
Parquet work is a rather complicated and time-consuming process, requiring a certain qualification of performers and the use of specialized equipment. For this reason, it is better to entrust the repair of parquet to a specialist.
However, we will try to give some recommendations for those who still decide to do parquet work on their own.
The restoration and finishing of parquet during repair should be the last step.
The process itself consists of eliminating defects (loose parquet floors, cracks, creaking floorboards), preparing the surface for varnishing, and varnishing directly. Consider these steps in more detail.
Floor repair
Parched and shaky parquet can be tried to be repaired on its own.
Carefully inspect the parquet. Drill small holes in loosened parquet floors and drive nails into them, while sinking the hats. If the floorboards creak, drill a hole of 5-8 mm between the creaking floorboards. at an angle of 45 degrees and drive in a wooden pin greased with carpentry glue or PVA glue.
Carefully cut off the protruding end with a chisel.
Cracks, potholes, places of driving nails and pins are thoroughly putty. As a putty, use a mixture of varnish, which will subsequently cover the parquet, and sawdust. To facilitate the filling of cracks, you can cut stencil from thick paper or cardboard.
Putty is applied with a putty knife on a stencil, filling the cracks, and without dirtying the rest of the surface.
On large areas of putty, an awl draws lines imitating the pattern of wood.
If you do not plan to completely remove the old coating (scraping), clean the blackened sections of the parquet with large emery paper to light wood, and wipe these and adjacent areas with a swab dipped in acetone to dissolve small particles of varnish. Apply glue BF-6 on clean wood, and wipe with the same swab.
Parquet looping
Before covering the parquet floor with varnish, it is cycled, and then sanded with sandpaper.
Manual parquet cycling is labor-intensive, time-consuming and labor-intensive. Machine scraping can be an alternative, however, the scraping machine, due to its high cost, belongs to a professional tool, and it is hardly economically feasible to purchase it because of a single scraping process.
A good way out of this situation is to turn to a private trader or company providing services in hitching, the cost of this work is not very high (for example, in St. Petersburg the average cost of this service is 160 rubles per square meter).
For manual looping you will need a special tool – a manual loop, it can be purchased without problems at a hardware store, or a steel plate bent in the shape of the letter “G”, and well sharpened.
To facilitate manual scrapping of the floor, iron it through a damp cloth and make it easier to work.
After the floor is cycled, it is sanded with a sandpaper. To do this, you can adapt the electric fan. On his brush with a clamp made of metal tape, sandpaper is fixed on a fabric basis. In the absence of this appliance, you will have to work with your hands, or rather with your feet.
Pressing is stronger than with hands, and the process is faster. So that the foot does not slip, it works better in sneakers, and for reliability, the back of the skin can be greased with rubber glue.
Parquet varnish
The final stage of parquet repair is varnishing. First of all, to prevent darkening of the wood and reduce the absorption of varnish into it, the parquet must be primed. As a rule, this is done with special primers based on nitrocellulose, but you can also use ordinary nitro-varnishes, but in this case, special attention should be paid to their color.
The primer is applied with a brush in 1 layer, and after it has completely dried (usually 4-5 hours), the floor surface is sanded.
When applying varnish directly to wood, in order to avoid the appearance, over time, of blue and other defects, it is recommended to pre-soak it with an antiseptic. Next comes the question of choosing a varnish. It seems that most recently the choice was limited to varnishes NTs, PF and two-component parquet, but in recent years many new domestic and imported types have appeared.
A wide overview of varnish types and their applications can be found in the Reference section.
